In and around Melbourne
/Living anywhere will mean that you have adventures in and around where you are living. In Paris, these seemed all very glamorous; however it is clear that in and around Melbourne is equally glamorous, albeit in a different way. I have often had people ask me for things to do close to the city, and here a a few things that we have done in the region of Melbourne.
Ocean Grove & Barwon heads
Ocean Grove is a small town on the Bellarine Peninsula, 20 kilometres southwest of Geelong and 100 or so kilometres from Melbourne. It is one of the largest towns on the peninsula and is situated on the Barwon River, which drains the area to the north of the Great Otway National Park. The park, or rather the outcrop around which the park is centred largely protects the coast from the gnarly conditions of the southern ocean and one is left only with the clean swells for which the surf coast is well known. Whilst Ocean Grove is not really known for its surfing nor hiking, I had just purchased a new lens and wanted to get out of town and test it out, so a walk around Smith's beach and Barwon heads seemed like a good choice.
The town has an interesting history linked to religious zealots establishing religious camp communities around the world, starting in New Jersey, U.S.A. and spreading due to its success. The zealotry was in the form of Methodism, the legacy which still lives on in the form of street names and until 2014, a liquor ban on any establishment selling alcohol. Nowadays, the town serves as an outer suburb of Geelong but retains - at least for the moment - that sleepy beach-town feel.
Guided by one of our trusty hiking books, we set out on a 10 kilometre loop. I had only spent a little time in the area around Barwon Heads due to my school holding an annual dinner at the golf club and a friend's beach house, but I had never really crossed over the river. Mia knew the area much better due to having watched a TV show set in the town and having family nearby in Queenscliff. But knowledge of an area is not a prerequisite for exploring - almost the opposite - so under a threatening sky and on damp ground, we set out.The walk itself was rather uneventful, but the coastal scenery was lovely, especially since we had not so long ago returned from Europe and being at the coast reminded me of my childhood holidays spent down on the coast in Gippsland. The geological formation around the southern head, the bluff area, are probably the highlight, along with the fairly nifty bridge over the river. Apart from the walk, I was simply stoked with my lens, which despite being heavy was so sharp I thought I cut myself on it more than once.
Bright
The Alpine town of Bright sits at the confluence of the Oven's River and Morses Creek. Perhaps better known as the northern gateway to Mount Hotham, one of the main ski resorts in Victoria, in was once a highly-prosperous gold-mining town. Indeed, one of the more infamous incidents of the era, the Buckland riot occurred in the Buckland River region. In the present day, it is a largely artificial town, full of short-term rentals propped up by tourism, but still a beautiful place. My father had recently moved to the area but was travelling overseas and asked if we could do a spot of house sitting, we (and a group of friends) were eager to accept the offer.
We drove up from Melbourne after work on a Friday night, meaning that we got in pretty late so did not do much other than chat and head to sleep. The next morning would see me prepare vastly too much porridge but insist that it was all eaten, so we were well stocked for the day. Our first task was to get some coffee, and after a bit of searching we ended up at Coral Lee, where I proceeded to have a flat what, simply as I didn't think that the coffee quality was going to be good enough to make an espresso worthwhile. Given that this was the first flat white I can remember having, I enjoyed it, but was still happy with my decision.
Our main event for the day was to visit the nearby Mount Buffalo National Park, where one can drive directly to the summit; however there are plenty of things to see on the way. We stopped in at Rollasons Falls, along with the Mount Buffalo Chalet on our way to The Horn. The whole area is simply gorgeous and has a fairly interesting history, being a major tourist destination in the early part of the 20th century. For us, it was a fun time out under blue skies, albeit a tad fresh.
Back in town, we made our way to the Bright Brewery for some afternoon drinks and dinner. The brewery is well set up and typically has some really interesting beers making it a worthwhile destination; however it can become rammed. Enjoying the company of one's fiends is always delightful, but perhaps the highlight of the evening was crossing over the bridge over the Ovens River under moonlight, and me saying "My father says that there is a platypus that lives around the bridge" and almost to the second the platypus appearing. See platypus is not exactly a common thing, so that was really neat and a great way to end the day.
The next morning we walked the canyon walk, which follows the river downstream and during autumn is alive with colour thanks to all the deciduous trees imported and planted around the place. They may be invasive, but they do give the place a delightful feel. Beyond this, we harvested the fruits - tomatoes mainly - from my father's neglected garden and then made our way back to Melbourne having enjoyed a refreshing weekend in the hills.
Macalister Springs
In a glorious turn of events, the Queen's birthday weekend - a long weekend in June to celebrate the Queen's Official Birthday, despite the current monarch's birthday being the sixth of February - was set to follow the first icy blast of the year, meaning the mountains should have a decent amount of snow, but we were to have nice weather on the mountains themselves. Moreover, snow tends to put Australians off, meaning wherever we went, we were likely to have the place to ourselves.
We were a group of four and did not want to sped all of our time climbing up the mountains to get snow, and fortunately the seasonal road closures had not kicked in for the year - indeed, closures usually start the day following the Queen's birthday holiday - meaning that we could still drive to the alpine areas. Our friends had not spent much time in the Alps and were keen to see some of the magic, and despite us having been there only a few months earlier, I suggested that we go to Macalister Springs, mainly as it is stunning, but also very accessible when coming from the south. With the plan locked in, all that was left was to put it into action.
The route to Macalister Springs is via the La Trobe valley and provides one of the main entry points into the Alps from the south. The gateway town of Licola is usually three hours from Melbourne; however, leaving town on a Friday night on the eve of a long weekend, particularly in a southeast direction, meant that it took much longer than that. The cold front had come through on Thursday night and had cleared during Friday, which meant we were in for ideal conditions, but we were not going to try our luck driving at night. The drive to Licola was very pleasant, with clear skies and mists in all the valleys, but once we were on Tamboritha Road, we were keen to stop in at camp. Sites litter the road which follows the Macalister River, and we ended up at the Wild Cherry Tree Campsite, which is essentially the first site. Beyond a slightly sketchy access road, we were greeted by a large teddy bear wedged into a tree which, when under illumination from the lights of the car proceeded to scare the shit out of us. We found some sites, and settled in for a beautiful but cold night under the stars.
The next morning brought beautiful blue skies and besides spending some time down on the river skimming stones, we didn't hang around for long before heading off on our journey up Howitt Road. Tamboritha Road climbs significantly before Arbuckle Junction, up to about 1400 metres, and prior to the turnoff we had already encountered a fair bit of snow. This was exciting, but we did not want all too much snow as we were not carrying chains. It was in the midst of the snow getting deeper as we were rising that we came across one on the most remarkable sights I have ever seen in the Alps: a 4WD on its roof on a completely flat section of road. Of course we stopped and offered assistance, but at risk of dying from embarrassment, the owner shooed us away, whilst ensuring us of the well being of all occupants. It was not long after this that we encountered a Parks Victoria team who assured us that a) they knew about the flipped car and also b) that the road ahead was perfectly navigable in an AWD with few icy patches. Thus we proceeded with very deliberate slow and steady driving to arrive at the carpark to the Mt. Howitt area.
It was in the preparation of the five kilometre walk that our friend mentioned the recent unreliability of his car battery, which would be absolutely exacerbated by the cold weather, but there was little we were going to do about it at that point - just return to the car in a couple of days and hope that it started. In any case, we set off on the Mt. Howitt walking track, which connects the car park with Mt. Howitt via Macalister Springs, the first section of which is essentially a flat walk through snow gum forest, which under snow is simply magical. The snow was between 15 and 30 centimetres deep, meaning that the walking was easy enough but everything had that winter wonderland appearance.
Upon arriving the Vallejo Gantner Hut, the was already someone setting up, a Norwegian fellow who was properly set for a harsh winter, which given the Australian conditions was absolute overkill, but go with what you know. We set about getting comfortable, which given there was only one other person there was not too hard and we set up the tents in front of the hut so we could enjoy hut life before bunking down. Being isolated out at hut in the winter is a genuinely special experience: it is rustic and the chill in the air is brutal, but a fire a good company mean the cold can be beaten back. A little nip of rum also helps.
The next day saw thick cloud descend on the alps, which makes for a great atmosphere, but not for great views. Moreover, the snowstorm had well passed and now there were a few patches of rain, which were quickly melting the settled snow. Adding to the fun, a severe southerly wind had whipped up, so our plan for a walk was not looking great. But we decided that we would go for a short stroll once the conditions stabilised somewhat. We made our way out to the Crosscut Saw, walking a small section of the Australian Alps walking track. As always, I have such strong memories of these areas from my school days, and it was delightful to be there under the snow, even though it was very fresh.
Returning to the hut, we once again had a fire going and given the warmth it was putting out, we decided that we would sleep in the hut. Our Norwegian friend had abandoned his voyage once the snow started melting, meaning we were happy to take over the hut.
The following morning would see us trudge back to the car in the mud and slush, although that was all very secondary to whether the car would actually start - especially given there was now no second car in the car park. Thankfully, it was a non-event and just fired up on cue, meaning we could start the long drive back to Melbourne. As always, we were on the hunt for a bakery and the logical spot was the Rosedale bakery; however we arrived right as they were closing up so the selection was limited but worse the products were no good, which was a terrible way to finish what was otherwise a fantastic weekend.
Up and over Melbourne
For some years, I have participated in redditgifts' Secret Santa gift exchange program and have often been genuinely touched by the gifts I have received. For example, the book of hikes in Iceland which was given to me in 2013 before visiting Iceland was such a well-thought out present from a stranger. And in a similar vein and with a major dollop of generosity, I was given a helicopter flight over Melbourne from someone saying that I could probably get some decent photos on the trip. So, to my Secret Santa, this is for you!
The trip began as a shambles, as we were out climbing in Werribee Gorge and consequently, I was at the mercy of my climbing buddies, whom I love but the chief is not known for his punctuality, so when were finally started on the mission back to Essendon Fields Airport I was on edge as to whether we would make it on time, but it turns out I was bang on. As I had been given a voucher, I had the whole year to choose when I was going to fly. For taking photos, this meant that it was either sunrise or sunset, but the company - and helicopters more generally - avoid poor light conditions. So in the end, I booked the latest available flight closest to the winter solstice that I could. That put me on the last flight at 1600 roughly 10 days before the solstice; and the winds were in my favour, quite literally delaying the flight ever so slightly, meaning the sun would be lower and the light better.
Having never been in a helicopter, I was rather excited, but it was also a strange experience as the group before us had been a staged proposal and I was with another couple - and as I was alone and with a big camera, I got the seat next to the pilot with the lovers in the back. In any case, I wasn't complaining. Taking off was an astonishingly odd feeling, not at all like travelling in a plane, nor would you expect it to be, but one really does just hover in mid-air. But then we were off: destination Southbank via Docklands, over to the MCG and university, back around on the same loop and then back to base. The tour was fast and the pilot was informative; however most of the commentary was lost on me due to being from Melbourne and also my concentration on taking photos. I was actually quite stressed, as I knew I had limited time and wanted to do a good job, but at the end I made sure to just sit back, relax and enjoy the ride.
Great Ocean Road
From June through September Southern right whales occupy the waters along the southern coast of Australia to calve, and Warrnambool is an accessible and reliable place to see them. Despite having had a much more extended visit to the region, some friends suggested we go down to the Great Ocean road for the weekend not only to watch whales, but also to explore the sights in the off season and thus with fewer people.
Like any good weekend, it started at the Queen Victoria market where we stocked up on food for the weekend before setting out west on the Price's highway. It takes about three hours to get to Warrnambool via Colac and our first destination was Logans Beach Whale Watching Platform. There is a group where one can find whale sightings and on the way out we had seen that there were plenty recorded along the coast, including at Logan's Beach and sure enough, when we arrived it took only a few minutes before we spotted our first.
In what was typical fashion for whenever we would travel together with these friends, there was never a hard plan, other than to do something: in this case see some whales. We knew that we would follow the coast back to Melbourne, but that was it. So with our eyes peeled for whales, we did exactly that. We stopped in at many of the big sights, the main lookout of Bay of Islands Coastal Park, the Bay of Martyrs, the Grotto Scenic Lookout, London Bridge and The Arch Lookout. Being winter, the sun was low in the sky and the days shorter, so once we hit Port Campbell and the Port Campbell National Park it was decided that we would spend the night nearby. A real highlight was going down to the Sherbrooke Estuary and exploring the beach: the light was magnificent and the sea violent. The wind was not particularly strong but there was a big swell and the wave were pounding the coast. This was particularity evident from the The Twelve Apostles, where we would the sun set and see the returning penguins be thrown around in the surf.
Much like our previous visit to the area, we would stay the night in Princetown, but this time at the camping reserve. The night was a clear sky and bitterly icy, but to stave off the cold we drunk some wine in the car whilst we played cards: a good night was had by all.
The twelve apostles
Sunday would see us travel to Wreck beach at approximately low tide, so we could investigate not only the wreck artefacts but also the geological sceptical that is the beach. I always have difficulty imaging the region as a volcanic hot spot, but the evidence is everywhere you look. As it was a Sunday morning, we also had the entire beach to ourselves for the entire duration of our trip, which has to be one of the most delightful aspects of travelling in winter. The flip side is that it can be cold and miserable. Fortunately for us, there was not a breath of wind: the ocean was like glass and we could just take it easy.
We continued to make our way east, with the occasional whale siting, but at some point the desire to stop driving and either see something or simply get home kicks in. Once we reached Lorne, we headed up to Teddy's Lookout, which despite my countless visits to the town, it was a site to which I had never been, and it really is a great view. But the bigger highlight was definitely to be a thickshake from Fruits of the forest, which is overpriced but top shelf. But to cap off the milkshake experience, we were enjoying them on a park bench and from up high, a cockatoo took a shit which landed directly in the centre of my mate's milkshake. It was complete and utter (hilarious) devastation.
Clunes
Located just under 150 kilometres from Melbourne, or just over 30 kilomtres from Ballarat, the town of Clunes lays claim to being the site of Victoria's first gold discovery. It was sold to me as the real Sovereign Hill: a gold-rush era town that has not modernised. Indeed, apparently the town was in dire straits before the relatively recent rejuvenation which wikipedia states is due to a fancy private school opening a campus in the town. In any case, on a visit to Mia's parents place in Ballarat, we took the opportunity to visit the area.
Perhaps the most notable aspect of the town is that it does indeed hark back to another age. The main drag has some beautiful old buildings, many of which are filled with historical artefacts. It was during our wanderings that I saw aspects of my father in me: he adores such places and I found myself pleasantly engaged with the town's history in the same way. The town is small, taking only a short time to completely explore, but that which is there is genuinely delightful.
Spire
To the southwest of Clunes is the Mount Beckworth scenic reserve, an outcrop suited for climbing and hiking, and we were not going to just pass it by, indeed, we were to climb Mount Beckworth. The park is stocked full of manna gums but surprisingly few koalas: we did not see any. But the walk up the Northern ridge track to the summit was surprisingly nice, with a good cover of forest and large boulders to explore. It was however very windy, which one might have expected given the proliferation of wind farms in the area. Overall, as a side trip on a visit to Ballarat, I give it 4 stars.
Mount Tabletop
With the Australian Alps under a blanket of snow, it was time to head back into the hills to experience one of my favourite things: eucalyptus trees in the snow. There is something special about the alpine areas of Australia and my time in Europe served to make me realise how special the environment here really is. A friend of a friend was keen on doing both hiking and skiing, a trip onto which I was more than happy to tag along. Unfortunately, the trip involved the usual slog out of Melbourne on a Friday night, driving directly to Bairnsdale, having a quick dinner, picking up someone and continuing onto Omeo. We had to pick up some snow chains and ultimately settled in at the Victoria Falls Camping ground. It was late, but the night was clear and crisp: it meant the stargazing was phenomenal, but also hypothermia-inducing.
The next morning we were up early and on the Great Alpine Road to JB Plain. The area was busy as it is where people happy to camp in the snow stay when they want to avoid the brutally high costs of staying on Mount Hotham, but there was still plenty of space for us. We made camp underneath stunningly clear skies before setting out on the path to Mount Tabletop. The path is about 4 kilometres in each direction, but we were in no rush, taking the time to enjoy the fresh snowfalls and the general landscape. The walking is easy and the path difficult to lose, making for perfect conditions. Upon our return to camp, we wandered across to the small alpine town of Dinner Plain and settled in at the Hotel High Plains for a beer and dinner at the Dinner Plain Hotel, both of which were delightfully warm and welcoming.
The night was fresh, with clear skies which made for a cold snooze, but worse for extremely icy conditions on the slopes. The last skiing I had done was at Les Trois Vallées and the conditions were superb. Back in Australia, the skiing was as I had remembered: short, expensive and icy. We had a cracker of a breakfast roll though, so it wasn't all bad.
Macedon Ranges
Sixty five kilometres to the northwest of Melbourne is the Macedon Ranges regional park, a set of ancient volcanic peaks nestled along the edge of the great dividing range. The area is well-known as a weekend destination for Melbourne folk and even more so for the genteel, but due to receiving about 1000 mm or rain each year, and mainly in winter, the cold and misty days keep people away and thus it is a great time to visit. Whilst most make a bee-line for Mount Macedon proper, Camels Hump is in my opinion, the much nicer area - and not just because there are fewer people.
Whilst in the area, we also visited the nearby Hanging Rock Reserve and wandered up the impressive Hanging Rock. The geological formation of the outcrop is truly arresting, but I resent having to pay to visit, especially as much of the infrastructure is centred around horse racing and honouring a film of the same name. Overall, I think I recommend viewing the rock from afar, as it has a majestic presence which is only eroded by closer investigation.